The 52 emerging fashion photographers who appear in the first edition of The Hunger, Rankin’s latest biannual magazine, were originally showcased in Dig the New Breed, an exhibition at the Annroy Gallery hosted by the prolific lensman and his wife Tuuli during London Fashion Week this past September. “I look for people with the same excitement for what they do and passion to create that I had, and still have!” he says of spotting new talents, like Grant Thomas, who left school at 16, bought a camera, and was signed to esteemed creative agency Jed Root a week before his 18th birthday. “It’s also important that they are taking risks, developing their own style, having the confidence to do what they think is right and putting it out there.” Co-founder of the Dazed Group, Rankin’s illustrious two-decade career has seen him shoot everyone from Kevin Spacey and The Rolling Stones, to Kate Moss and Madonna, in addition to campaigns for BMW, Levi’s and Hugo Boss. Both a platform for emerging talents and a celebration of established names, The Hunger combines glossy editorials, interviews with the likes of Sky Ferreira, and gripping reportage from drought-stricken northern Kenya.
Any words of advice for young photographers starting out today?
Finding your style is so important, and loving what you do. But to be a professional photographer you have to realize it’s a business as well as an art, and if you don’t have commitment and drive and energy, you’ll fall behind. You can’t afford to be idle or complacent, because there are so many opinionated, ambitious people out there doing the same thing.
The Hunger mixes glossy fashion editorial with dramatic photojournalism, why did you choose to juxtapose such differing styles in the same publication?
This isn’t primarily a fashion magazine, but it does understand the importance of fashion. I don’t think the two are necessarily juxtaposed, I think they are linked in being interesting and beautiful shoots. This magazine was a very personal venture, and I wanted to feature everything that I found interesting, in the hope that there are a lot of people out there like me who will feel the same.
In this digital era, what do you see as the purpose of a new magazine?
Books and magazines will never disappear, in the way that microwaves will never replace ovens and reality TV will never replace reality. There’s something to be said for a real experience, and for personal possessions.
What magazines do you read religiously?
I wouldn't say I do anything religiously, apart from take pictures. I read The Week, which is brilliant. I read Dazed and AnOther Man, Vanity Fair, Interview, and occasionally Elle and Vogue.