“I’m interested in subverting traditional utilitarian pieces for fashion expression,” says Eugene Tsai of his jewelry line, Made by Eugene. Brazilian-born, New York-based Tsai has collaborated with artists including Urs Fischer, Pierre Huyghe and Robert Wilson (working as an art director on some of Wilson’s “Video Portraits.”), but his “eureka!” moment came two and a half years ago, when he noticed a trend of people wearing their keys on a string around their necks. His response was to produce the first of his signature pieces: a key fob necklace, embossed with a Morrissey lyric. The response he received after flashing one in New York’s Oak boutique prompted him to expand his ideas into an entire line, which grew to include charm pieces. Many of the works utilize equestrian hardware, and Tsai cites classic houses such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton as influences in the way he handles leather. Each piece is cleverly titled: for example, a charm necklace riffing on elements of the classic “Mom” tattoo (a heart, a die and a dagger) is called “True Love.” “I almost like the titles the best, as I think they add something poetic and emotional to the piece,” says Tsai. “Often the names don’t seem to be connected, but they are self-referential moments, and it’s how I remember being originally inspired.” This fall Tsai collaborates with his friend Siki Im on the accessories for his menswear line. The plethora of leather straps and harnesses are “not about bondage,” says Im, “but more about bandaging. There’s also religious and samurai influences there too.”