Surf culture’s 80-year-old founding father John Severson is still making waves. As a young painter, Severson captured the spirit of surf with pieces that range from the thrillingly vivid to the profoundly serene. While stationed in Oahu with the US Army, he started to explore film with cult movies Surf Safari and Surf Fever, and the success of these subsidized the launch of Surfer magazine, first published in 1959. It soon became the sport’s bible by pioneering a new visual language as a celebration of counter-cultural expression and individualism. John Severson’s Surf is a new book published by Maui gallerist Puka Puka, collecting paintings, prints and archival images that span six decades. Below, the octogenarian talks to Timothée Verrecchia about the everlasting inspiration of surf culture.

In the decades since you launched Surfer, the media landscape has radically changed. How do you feel about digital?
John Severson: I like it. the immediacy of the delivery, the color, and the pop of digital media. Since we’re such a fluid sport, the ability to move the visuals makes so much sense. It seems a perfect companion to the printed magazine, and book. I hope we don’t lose the printed version, but...

What inspires your art today?
JS: It’s a time of reflection, and enjoying memories of great days and times. I was crushed when I had to stop riding big waves (at 78). “Bummed” was not a good state of mind to be in, so I began painting more reflective and personal paintings. I did a series of Gremmies, in their attention-getting maneuvers and outlandish outfits. I followed that withThe Great Wave series. Some of these are autobiographical—to a point—but always going farther, beyond where we are today. It’s fun.

What are some highlights of your years in surfing?
JS: Getting sent to Hawaii by the US Army, and then assigned to the Army Surf Team. Riding giant Makaha Point surf, and living through it. Back-dooring a ten-foot Honolua wave, and spending most of the afternoon in that tube. Winning the Peru International Surfing Championship. My first successful surf film, and of course, the creation and success of Surfer magazine. Do you want me to add the next 50?

Can you share a favorite surf spot?
JS: That would be Sunset Beach. Oh boy.