“Fay’s reputation as a very highly respected food critic creates a shroud of mystery around her,” says The Gourmand’s Marina Tweed of Fay Maschler, who has overseen an enormous cultural shift in British food culture since she started reviewing restaurants for the Evening Standard in 1972. “Her articles portray a sense that food shouldn't always be too serious; it's there to be enjoyed.” Captured in Maschler’s Georgian townhouse in London’s Fitzrovia by Ben McMahon, the photography series appears in issue four of the design-led gastronomic biannual, which was co-founded two years ago by Tweed and co-Editor in Chief, David Lane. “The Gourmand celebrates the important role that food plays in our lives; sharing experiences, stories and ideas,” says Tweed. “I think Fay’s kitchen shows that she shares these values too.” British food writer Adam Coghlan visited Maschler’s home along with MacMahon, and indulged in a spot of table talk. Below are some of his highlights from her kitchen.
Pasta machine
The Italian-made Atlas pasta machine played an unorthodox role towards the end of Fay’s first marriage, to the publisher Tom Maschler. Ruefully she says, “In the dying days of our relationship, making pasta was pretty much the only thing Tom and I could do harmoniously.” It is a gadget she still uses infrequently.
Sri Lankan Spice Selection
Fay was born in India, where her parents lived before moving back to London. One of her daughters now lives there and Fay regularly visits. She’s been known to return with big bags of Tellicherry peppercorns from Kerala, cinnamon bark and other spices, but this collection of 26 came from Sri Lanka, a country whose cuisine she loves.
Timo Saraneva Pot
The most recent addition to Fay’s bounty. This Finnish enamel-coated, cast-iron pot was spotted on food writer Diana Henry’s blog. She loved it, despite conceding: “the last thing I need is a pot.” The precision of the design means the lid fits so snugly as to minimize the opportunity for vapors and flavors to escape.
The Gourmand Issue Four is available this week.