“My dad was one of those really crazy amateur photographers,” says writer and curator Magdalene Keaney of her first introduction to the fashion image. “He took lots of pictures of punks in England in the late 1960s, then later at skate parks.” The Canberra native’s new book, Fashion Photography Next, a version of which can also be seen in an exhibition at Amsterdam’s Foam museum, is ultimately a product of this enduring obsession and showcases 35 up-and-comers whose work is contributing to the debates around the trade. The idea for the compendium came to Keaney after curating a show of Irving Penn’s work at London’s National Portrait Gallery, as well as stints at the V&A, spurred on by the feverish growth of digital technology. The author was inspired not only by the changing methods of the form, but by how images are stored, edited and presented, exemplified by the inclusion of postproduction maverick Erik Madigan Heck and documentarian Boo George. While Keaney believes that “the best fashion photographers are just incredible photographers,” she also notes that factors such as “bravery, innovation, hard work, good commissioners and the right team” are equally important in the creation of groundbreaking work. We caught up with Joss McKinley and Charlie Engman, two of the breakout talents featured in today's preview of the book, to talk past, future and fantasy fashion photography.

Tell us your earliest memory of fashion.
Charlie Engman: My older sister always had an impressive closet.
Joss McKinley: Axl Rose's colorful array of bandanas.

You're shooting your fantasy editorial: who is the subject, dead or living, and what’s the location and why? 
CE: Cleopatra on the moon; it sounds like the title of a great song.
JM: Faye Dunaway and Elvis in Graceland in the early 1960s. Need I say more?

Which fashion photographer would you choose to shoot your portrait?
CE: Cindy Sherman.
JM: Paolo Roversi, on Polaroid.

What one photographic habit do you have no intention of breaking?
CE: Instagram.
JM: Not using a reflector.

What is your photography prediction?
CE: Everyone will realize that everyone is a photographer.
JM: A backlash on people who use their smart phones at public events.

Fashion Photography Next is published in September on Thames & Hudson. Don't Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next runs through September 7 at the Foam Photography Museum, Amsterdam.