Situated outside the small town of Roses on the Costa Brava in Spain, El Bulli isrenowned as the spiritual home of molecular gastronomy—a cuisinethat has equal footing in science and the culinary arts. Here, equipmentcommonly found in research laboratories—liquid nitrogen,centrifugal motors, pacojet machines—is key to masterminding dishes prepared with techniques including spherification (suspending aliquid in a thin alginate membrane) and aerification (foams). If ElBulli is this food movement’s temple, then its chef and owner, FerranAdrià, is its high priest. He has influenced a generation ofscientifically minded chefs, and his acolytes can be found the worldover: Noma’s Rene Redzepi served for a stage at El Bulli, whilerestaurants such as Alinea in Chicago, wd~50 in New York, and Varvaryin Moscow are clearly in his debt. El Bulli is only inoperation six months a year, in which it typically receives onemillion applications (for 8,000 places), so getting a seat is tough.What's more, it is set to close this December, much tothe chagrin of gastronomes the world over. For today’s film, we sent filmmaker Alison Chernick (known for documenting artists, notably Matthew Barney and Jeff Koons, who she recently captured for NOWNESS) to infiltrate the gastronomic mecca. “I think the big question, whichI don’t think is answered yet, is whether Adrià is a chef with anextremely artistic practice, or whether he is an artist using food ashis medium,” says the director. As for her eating experience? “Surreal,” she says. “My favorite course was the first: a Comme desGarçons perfume spray on a plate with a dry martini inside. Next toit were ‘spherical olives’—green balls filled with olive puree.Ferran really flexes his muscles on you, while setting the bar prettyhigh for the ultimate dining experience. I'm still digesting it onmany levels.”
Quench your thirst with more El Bulli delights and check out the restaurant's newly concocted bespoke beer here.